Whale Sharks, Whale Sharks and more Whale Sharks!Galapagos Islands -Galapagos Aggressor 1Wednesday August 16, 2006 - Got up at 5:00 AM and left for Salt Lake International Airport at 6:00 AM. Flew out on Delta to Atlanta at 8:30 AM. Onto Bogotá Columbia and then into Quito Ecuador. In Bogotá, there were hundreds of police in the airport. They all had these old fashioned holster that were bright white. It looked like something out of a 1940s film noire.
We finally made it into Quito at 10:30 PM. We hooked up with our driver who delivered us to the Dann Carlton Hotel in the financial district in Quito. It was a very nice hotel. We were expecting to stay there for only one night, however it turned out to be two nights!

Thursday August 17, 2006 - We got up at 7:00 AM and had a large buffet breakfast with the entire group consisting of Mike & Laura Robinson, Larry & Barbara Gilson, Jeff Smith & Jeff Matson, Craig Ramon & Brad Gilson, Sandra McNicoll & Steve Caverli, Brit Server & Crayton Walker and Gwen & Randy Thornton (me!) Our tour operator Ivonne met us at the hotel and took us in a shuttle to the Quito airport, where we found mass confusion. A volcano, just a couple of miles away from Quito had erupted in a major way, causing ash to spew everywhere in that part of the country. Consequently, all of the flights for much of the day were cancelled and we spent the better part of the day waiting for word if our flight was going to take off or not. Finally, about 2 PM we boarded the plane and went out on the runway only to have the tower call the plane back in. As it turned out, our flight was permanently cancelled about 3 PM and we had to go back to the hotel for the rest of the day and wait for word.
We went out shopping at a local market in town and contributed to the local economy by purchasing sweaters, shawls, scarves, etc. Later that evening, the group went out to dinner at a place called "LaRhonda". The food was above average and the restaurant featured live music with two different bands. One which consisted of 3 guitars players with a lone saxophone - which was a very odd combination, and the other band was the typical South American pan flute band in the Peruvian tradition. The second band was extremely entertaining, and I ended up purchasing one of their CDs.

Friday August 18, 2006 - We got up at 6 AM, ate at the buffet again, loaded our gear onto a shuttle and went back to the airport very eager to catch our flight. We eventually were able to get on a flight to Baltra Island by way of Gyuaquil, after much screaming and yelling by our small but feisty tour operator Ivonne! After a 40 minute layover in Guyaquil, we flew onto Baltra where we hooked up with the Aggressor folks at the airport there. Xavier Romero, a dive master from the Aggressor met us and took us back to the boat. We checked in, ate lunch, showed our C-cards and did a check out dive right on the other side of the island where the boat had been parked. We only dove to 56 feet, but saw a lot of cool stuff including a Tiger Snake Eel, a giant parrot fish, the largest Queen Angel I have ever seen, and a VERY friendly sea lion that was zooming through a group of sardines and then noticed us and played around with us for over 15 mins. This first dive was just supposed to be a check out dive to check on our buoyancy, and get our weighting right, but Gwen and I had a great time. The water was a cool 71 degrees, and that took a little getting used to, and the viz was only about 30 feet. Regardless, it was a lot of fun and we saw some very cool wildlife. We are now under way to Darwin Island, which will take us approximately 17 hours from Baltra.
Saturday August 19th, 2006 - We are Darwin's arch and did 4 dives. Two before lunch and two after lunch. The current has been slower than usual and we have had an incredible dive. At one point we saw at least 22 Hammerheads in a school. They are all Scalloped Hammerheads in the 8-9 foot range with every once in awhile, a 10 footer will come by. We have also seen a handful of Galapagos Sharks. These big boys are more in the 10-12 foot size and have a huge girth. They are at least twice as wide as the Hammerheads. The Hammerheads are very curious until they get close to you and you exhale, then they get nervous and take off.


There are all sorts of other cool looking fish, bright yellow puffer fish, coronet and trumpet fish that are 3-4 feet long, yellow fin tuna, zooming in and out of the large schools of fish. One tuna was almost 5 feet long and looked like it could hold its own against any shark that was out there. Huge schools of jacks - some of them enormous! There are green eels everywhere on the rocks. I am seeing 10-15 on every dive. Some of them are 5-6 feet long. The schools of fish are so huge that when they go by they block out the sun! It is very cool to see the large predators dive-bombing through the schools and see the fish scattering everywhere!
I guess the biggest news is - No Whale Sharks. This is the primary reason most people have come on this trip, and the lack of whale sharks is starting to cause some grumbling!
Last night we ate dinner up on the top deck and had a very nice barbeque. The food has been very good, and the service by everyone on the boat has been top notch, including the typical Aggressor warm towels and hot chocolate and snacks on the dive deck.
Sunday August 20, 2006 - Success! Whale sharks - We have seen 4 whale sharks today, including one at the surface that we swam with! One of the whale sharks was at least 40 feet long. It is such an amazing experience to swim out into the blue and look up and see a shark that is the size of a city bus! Xavier and Walter our two dive masters, carry steel rods that they bang on their tanks when they see something. Even if you can't see it, when you hear the banging you swim out into the blue and look for the whale shark. I swam with the whale shark until I was totally out of breath, had 4 mins. of deco, and only 500 psi left, so I had to stop chasing the whale shark and start my ascent. Additionally we had schooling hammerheads (a group of over 20) for 15 mins. Mike Robinson had a hammerhead that came within two feet of his face, turned sideways and looked eyeball to eyeball! It was amazing. We also had a dolphin that swam circles around us at 90 feet several times. This afternoon dives were as good as it gets!
Monday August 21, 2006 - Success again. We got up early and did another dive at Darwin's Arch before breakfast. We saw another Whale Shark. This one was a little smaller than the one we saw yesterday afternoon, but yet it was still enormous. Darwin's Arch is absolutely amazing. Hammerheads everywhere, an occasional Galapagos and silkies. Schools of fish so thick that you think the sun is going through an eclipse when they go over. When the whale shark comes along, everyone swims out into the current and tries to keep up with the whale shark swimming against the current. You can only do it for a minute or two before you are so winded you are over-breathing your regulator. (Note to self- Time to hit the gym a little harder when I get home!) At this point, our air is running out, and we start making our way to the surface. Usually, we have a couple of minutes of deco to take care of, then we are doing our extended safety stop. At the safety stop we see barracudas and Wahoo circling.
Getting back on the "pangas" (dinghies) is a chore in itself. You take off your gear and hand it up to the pang driver, and then pull/kick/throw yourself up and over the side of the pang and land on the side like a beached whale. At this point, you are hoping that no one is taking any video to blackmail you with when you get home. All in all, I think we can count the 2-1⁄2 days of diving at Darwin's arch as a success!
As soon as we get back onto the Galapagos Aggressor 1, we start heading toward Wolf Island for 2 afternoon dives. I have only one word to say about diving at Wolf - WOW! High voltage, high current, lot's and lot's of sharks! Galapagos, Hammerhead and Silkies. Everywhere you looked, sharks, sharks and more sharks! But probably the most beautiful sight at this location are the multiple squadrons of Eagle Rays. Where else in the world can you see 20 Eagle Rays in formation, all at the same time? I am trying to take pictures while I have Eagle Rays and Sharks coming from every direction, and Gwen it tugging on my wetsuit constantly trying to point me in the direction of the next incoming! All the while, I am getting whipped around by the current, and turned every which way but loose! It was truly overwhelming to see so many spectacular formations of perfect eagle rays, and VERY BIG BIG Galapagos sharks coming from all directions. It was one of those times when you whish you had your double 104s or a rebreather that would allow you to stay down for hours.
The water temperature was a little colder than Darwin, about 71 degrees, but the viz was a little better - about 50-60 feet. All 14 divers were kind of spread out over the reef so that everyone could stay out each other's way. It was certainly one of the most exciting two dives I have ever done anywhere at anytime.
That night, we took off for the 14-hour crossing back to Cousin's rock. It was very rough, and several people got sea sick, including me! I ended up taking some Dramamine, which doesn't happen very often for me. It was Larry Gilson's 60th birthday, and the chef cooked up a special birthday cake, which was quite good! The food has been wonderful on this boat, and the crew is probably the best that I have had on any liveaboard. All of them are native Ecuadorian, and extremely helpful and friendly. The two dive masters Walter and Xavier are great, and always looking for stuff to show us. Xavier actually has a master's degree in Marine Biology, and has been very informative about all of the marine life.
Tuesday August 22nd - After a LONG night crossing we have arrived at Cousin's Rock. We did two dives here, which were quite different from Darwin or Wolf. First off all very little current. There are lot's of beautiful starfish in various flavors. They look kind of like starfish with chocolate chips on top! Dozens of small fish that I have never seen before and a few sea lions waiting to play with us. For the first time, we are seeing other people. There are a few other boats in the area, and after the desolation of Darwin and Wolf, it almost feels odd to see another human being outside of our own little party. Galapagos is very much an isolated chain of islands way out in the middle of nowhere, and it is obvious that the isolation has keep the prolific number of fish high!
Tuesday August 23rd - The 2 dives at Cousins Rock was quite different from Darwin and Wolf. The water was 3 or 4 degrees cooler. We saw a few sea lions, which were quite playful. We also saw hundreds of starfish is various colors, sizes and shapes. The biggest attraction at Cousin's was the seahorses. The seahorses in Galapagos are larger than most. The ones we saw were 4-5 inches long. One was yellow and one was red. They are very surreal looking, almost like a toy or something.
Later that afternoon, we traveled over to Bartoleme bay and took a little pang trip to see the penguins and sea lions. The penguins are very cool to look at, although their numbers have been decimated from 4000 down to 400 total for the Galapagos Islands. El Nino had a very bad effect on them, and killed 90% of the populations. Later that same afternoon, we also hiked up to the top of the volcanoes on the top of Bartoleme and saw the view that was made famous in "Master and Commander". The sight is really one in a million.
That night we motored over to Santa Cruz, which was about a 4-hour trip, and spent the night in that bay.
Wednesday August 24th - We got up and did a "sea lion" dive in the bay of Santa Cruz, at a place called "Plata Plazas" - Nothing too exciting, but I did see several creatures that I have never seen before. The marine biology is very diverse here, and I have seen 30 -40 creatures that I have never seen anywhere else in the world.
Later that afternoon, we did a tour of the Charles Darwin Center, where we saw the large tortoises and tried to see Lonesome George, who is the last of his breed. When he dies, that particular genetic strain will cease to exist. Unfortunately, Lonesome George was feeling a little shy that day, and would come out of his opening so that we could see what he looked like. We did however see several HUGE animals that were just enormous!
We were off the boat that night on Santa Cruz for dinner on our own. The restaurant that the boat hooked us up with, took forever to get us our food, but it tasted great. Grilled Slipper Lobster in Garlic Sauce!
We then moved to San Cristobal Island to catch our flight back to Guyaquil and then onto Quito for an overnight stay before we fly home. Some of the group are staying in Ecuador to do jungle tours for 3 days.
Overall, the trip was a great success, and I am looking forward to coming again to see the wonders of the Galapagos Islands! Another great time was had by Utah's Dive Addicts.